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    Linda replied to the topic Early forcing of peonies (hoop houses and GA3) in the forum Magazine articles comments

    4 years, 5 months ago · updated 4 years, 5 months ago

    Hello, the humidity was always too high during the growing period in the hoop house, which should have caused many diseases, especially botrytis.

    Would you pay attention to the method of vegetable’s early forcing in hoop? To cover the whole ground in the hoop with mulching film, and let the drip pipe under the film. When the buds of the peonies break the ground, we pull out the buds from the film. The humidity in the hoop could be down a lot.

    As to the 1g active ingredient of GA3, would you supply a photo about its instruction? I plan to try in my own nursery, and there are some details which I’m not sure…

    Thanks a lot for your sharing!!

    3 Comments
    • Yes, humidity is a problem in the polytunnels. The larger polytunnels are better in this respect. You need to open the sides quite often to vent them. Controlling humidity goes better with some experience. The smaller polytunnels I leave the front and back halfway open always. And I have found there is a maximum length of polytunnels that can be used. For our smaller ones (5-6 m width), that is about 60 metres. I had one at 100 metres length and no matter what I did, the middle of it (40-60 metres from the beginning) was constantly wet and I had to throw most of the flowers away there. It’s easy to see normally, just go the middle of the polytunnels where humidity is normally highest and if the foliage and buds are dry then it’s ok.

      I don’t fully understand what you mean by ‘vegetable’s early forcing’ to be honest. Placing some mulch on the ground will keep the ground drier, but the problem of humidity only arises when they are actively growing, not when they are breaking ground. Drip irrigation is what we use also, overhead irrigiation is nearly impossible, if you do that, it’s extremely difficult to get them dry again, especially when the foliage of the plants is touching one another.

      I can show you how the GA3 is added, but it isn’t particularly difficult. When you buy GA3 it’s usually in tablets of some 5 or 10 gram, with either 20% or 10% GA3 active ingredient. Thus 1 gram GA3 per tablet. 1 gram is 1,000 milligram. And there are 1,000 grams in a kilogram/liter of water. So milligram equals ppm (parts per million) because 1,000 x 1,000 is obviously 1,000,000. 1 tablet on 1 litre of water thus equals 1,000 ppm, and because 100 ppm is needed, you have to use 10 litres of water for 1 tablet. A bucket usually contains 10 litres more or less, so fill it with water, add 1 tablet, let it dissolve and then pour some of it on the plants (try to reach the the buds). You can pour as much as you like on them, but usually you can treat some 4 plants with 1 liter of water, thus some 40 plants with that one bucket.

      It should be done very early in the season, for me that means now, in December, because all it does is reduce the cold requirements. If you wait until February, the natural cold will already have done its work and your work will be in vain. If you do it now, then the few warmer days in Winter will give them a headstart and that will make the difference. I have to treat most of my plants yet, I’ll try to make some pictures of it and will post them. Don’t exactly know when but unless it freezes it will be within the next two weeks.

      If any clarifications would be needed, just ask. And always keep some plants as control to see any difference of course 😉

      • Please pay attention to the attached picture of mulching film : drip irrigition under the film. The film can decrease the evaporation of the ground, you can lessen the times of irrigation, and so the humidity will not increase quickly.
        Just a suggestion,Ok?
        Thanks for your kind and detailed explanation. I’m going to try some plants at once. Sarah blooms in the middle of May in my nursery, perhaps it’s a little late to use GA3 now.

      • I see. The mulching film is thus the white plastic? I suppose drip irrigation under that plastic will indeed be necessary, otherwise the only water would come from the openings around the plants. Are you planning on using those same ‘growing bags’ or do you want to plant the peonies in soil and then place such white plastic above it, with openings for the plants?

        Some growers use anti-root-cloth, because this keeps weeds out (at least as long as there is no soil above the cloth), it lets water through and decreases evaporation.

        There’s a research station I cooperate with that has done some experiments with different mulches in peonies. I should write an article about it, but there are also many other things to be done and I don’t always have enough time.

        But the mulch is not really the issue. I’ve grown peonies in polytunnels with mulches also, and whilst it does what you’d expect, the soil evaporates less and is moist for a longer time, the humidity in the polytunnel is hardly influenced by it.

        That is because most humidity simply comes from evaporation of the plants themselves (you could grow them drier of course, but water shortage tends to show up in less flowering stems (or relatively more flowerless stems)). When the peonies are just peeking through the ground, there is not much of a humidity problem. Relative humidity is not particularly high on average then, and if it does (because of very humid and grey weather outside) there’s no damage. It’s when the plants are actively growing and have a lot of leaflets open that they evaporate that you see the relative humidity rising fast. The plants are most prone to damage when the flower buds are almost about to appear from the upper leaflets but are still encircled by them, making something of a ‘depression’ where the water can remain standing. That period is usually short, perhaps a week or so, but if humidity at that time is high… A mulch of compost or something might take up the droplets of water falling on it, but most droplets from the polytunnel plastic will fall on the foliage and flower buds. A plastic mulch will do nothing at all there, the water will simply remain on it. Anti-root-cloth will be somewhat comparable to the compost mulch. Anyway, what you need at that time is adequate ventilation. If temperature is higher inside that outside (as it normally is during daytime with the slightest bit of sun), the Relative Humidity can be lowered through the exchange of inside and outside air where the outside air will have a lower absolute water content (warmer air can contain more water in absolute number at the same relative humidity). If the colder air enters the warmer polytunnel, the absolute amount of water in it remains but relative humidity drops because that air is now becoming warmer. If there is also some wind flow it can dry the leaflets and flowers. A fan might also help somewhat. Spacing the plants further from one another is another possibility. Drip irrigation, as mentioned before, is absolutely necessary (unless you’re growing them in some very dry area like they may be doing in Israel at the Golan Heights). But in fact what I wanted to say: that plastic mulch will be of no help to keep relative humidity low.

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